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at only one wheel rather than at both wheels unl the torque
equalizes. This eect is easy to become used to but is menoned
for your informaon.
Cornering. When turning your vehicle, try to do so
under slight posive throle. If turning is done with a neutral
throle, it may tend to “buck” because of interacon between
the free drive sha rotaon and the engine RPM change due to
a varying load. During normal turning movements on the street,
you will noce that your new LOCK-RIGHT operates easily.
If you are powering in a turn and then get o the gas,
torque transfers from the inside (driving) wheel to the outside
(decelerang) wheel. This transfer of torque may tend to change
the vehicle direcon; when turning on slippery surfaces, be sure
to do so smoothly and avoid jerking.
If you are in a turn and accelerate sudden-
ly, the vehicle will tend to straighten out because ini-
ally the inside wheel is the only one that is being pow-
ered (the outside wheel is free-wheeling during the turn).
Be very careful in turns, especially on water or ice!
Driveline Wind-up. When a vehicle turns, each wheel
follows a slightly dierent path. This means that each wheel
turns at a slightly dierent rate than the others because of the
individual turning radii. In a 4WD behicle with all wheels en-
gaged, the wheels try to slip a lile as the vehicle is turning. On
a dirt surface, this acon occurs unnoced. On a paved road,
however, the wheels are “locked” to the pavement so that they
are unable to slip. Since they are all connected together through
the drive train and are turning at dierent rates, something must
give. The result is that all memeber sin the drive train—drive
shas, U-joints, axles, gears, etc.—become highly stressed and
either something breaks ore the parts bind up and the vehicle
will not steer or move. This condion is known as “driveline
wind-up” and is the reason that the manufacturers’ manuals
state that the vehicle should never be driven on hard-surfaced
roads in 4WD. This especially is true of vehicles with
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